Beyond The Walls- Icynene, All Spray Foam is not equal

When it comes to choosing insulation, conducting a little research and asking questions are just some of the best ways to ensure that your insulation choice is safe, well-ventilated, energy efficient and can perform optimally over the long-term.  Here are some tips to consider when researching  the various insulation options including spray foam insulation. By doing some research and ensuring you have chosen to work with a licensed spray foam insulation contractor, you are taking measures to protect yourself from the risk of a poor installation or poorly performing insulation. Don't be shy about asking a contractor for references, or for information about jobs they have completed. 

Why do we like Icynene? 

For over 20 years Icynene has been the industry leader in spray Foam and spray Foam innovation and is our only choice as a vendor partner when it comes to spray foam insulation.  It is rare that a manufacturer would offer a warranty that transfers with ownership for the life of the building. At insulUSA, we can offer our homeowners piece of mind by using the best product and the best warranty on the market. 

Beyond The Walls- Weatherization, Duct Tape does NOT fix everything!

In recent years as the cost of heating a home has increased, so has the need for weatherization education. The US Department of Energy estimates that over 6.2 Million homes have been weatherized as part of the US Weatherization Assistance Program (WAP), created in the late 1970s to help low income families by reducing their energy bills. Today, decades later, more and more homeowners are looking for ways to reduce their energy consumption and their lower their utility bills. Data supports that weatherization returns about $2.69 for each dollar spent on weatherizing your home.  This makes good sense no matter your income bracket.

The process of weatherization involves a variety of procedures, many which can be accomplished by the home owner with materials that can be found at the local home improvement center. Others will require the services of experienced professionals. Lets begin with some of those we can tackle on our own. Best place to begin is by sealing bypasses, any type of gaps, cracks or holes where air can move through. Our natural instinct is to grab that roll of duct tape and get busy  and although duct tape is used for a lot of household fixes, it is not suitable for weatherization. Some materials that may be needed include caulk, foam sealant. weather stripping, electrical receptical gaskets  and door sweeps. Bypasses will be found around doors, windows, pipes and wiring- anywhere that penetrates the ceiling and floor. 

Weatherization Shopping List

Another substantial source of air leakage occurs through can lights. Sealing recessed lighting fixtures prevents large amounts of conditioned air from escaping into unconditioned spaces. Covers for these can be made, or purchased through home improvement centers. If you are a do-it-yourselfer, it pays to do some research before making your own because there are specific dimensions that should be adhered to to  prevent contact with the fixture itself. 

Most home improvement stores will have everything you need in a prominent location.  

Leaky air ducts which can account for up to 20% of heat loss in the home should not be overlooked. Sealing these air ducts can make a substantial difference when reducing your energy costs, but put that duct tape down!! The best way to seal the duct work is with a product called mastic. This is a thinset resin which is ideal because of its bonding capabilities and its resistance to heat. There are also foil HVAC tapes on the market that will do the job and are much easier to work with. 

Beginning with these few items will make a difference and can be accomplished in a weekend. In my next blog, I will outline just a few services that make will make a difference that are best left to professionals. Good luck and get started! 

Beyond the Walls- Energy Audits

Many homeowners are looking at energy audits to find ways to conserve energy and cut utility costs. So what is an energy audit?  An energy audit is a service where the energy efficiency of a house is evaluated by a person using professional equipment  such as blower doors, infrared cameras, duct blasters and more. Hiring a professional Home Energy Auditor is recommended if you are looking for specific recommendations for improving the efficiency and the health of your home. After the inspection, the auditor  provides a detailed report that prioritizes the energy uses from the greatest to least cost effective opportunities for energy savings.

The audit process should cover these main issues: 

• The analysis of building and utility data, including the study of installed equipment (HVAC) and analysis of energy bills.
• The survey of real operating conditions.
• The understanding of the building behavior and of the interactions with weather, occupancy and operating schedules
• The selection and evaluation of energy conservation measures
• The estimation of energy saving potential
• The identification of customer concerns and needs

When making recommendations to the home owner consideration is given to the following: 

• Payback Period
• Annual Return
• Savings-to-Investment Ratio
• Life-Cycle Cost
• Compare the life cycle cost of taking action versus the the life-cycle cost of not taking action.
• If the cost  of taking action is less than inaction, a home energy auditor will recommend that action is taken.

The Home Energy Auditor is versed in incentives, rebates and tax benefits and can assist  the homeowner in taking advantage of these. The return on these benefits usually offsets the expense of any upgrades significantly. After the audit, the homeowner is provided with a performance report and is educated on how best to use energy more efficiently and more importantly, HOW TO SAVE MONEY! 

Beyond The Walls-Leaky Attics (Repost 6/14)

Much as you might expect an auto mechanic to have a finely tuned automobile or a hair stylist to have great hair, you would expect that someone who has been in the insulation  business for any length of time to have a well insulated home. As promised in my last blog, armed with flashlight, insulation rulers and an illustration of common attic problems, I spent some quality time getting to know my attic. As anticipated, I had to give myself a failing grade. I went up looking for three things:

1.) Thermal bypasses/Air leakage

2.) Areas of disrupted /Missing insulation

3.)  Areas with insulation levels below recommended code

At first glance it was clear that attic insulation would be needed to bring my attic up to current code for our region of an R-38. After measuring in a number of areas, on average, I found about 8" of insulation, roughly an R-19. More troubling was the color of my insulation. When looking for areas of air leakage, the easiest way to find these is to identify areas where the insulation is darker, or dirty looking. This indicates that air is flowing through the insulation at these points. These are typically found around recessed can lights, open floor joists, whole house fans, attic access areas, electrical boxes and even gaps between the top plates and sheetrock. Sadly, my insulation was dirty in over 50% of the attic which means that a substantial portion of my energy costs are escaping through the roof.

If that wasn't bad enough, I found an area of ductwork which wasn't securely connected and sealed, allowing the heated air and the dust from my cellulose insulation to escape into the conditioned living space, (I know why my house is always so dusty!) thus causing my furnace and AC to work harder to compensate. 

To achieve the greatest energy savings with insulation the best course of action in the attic would be to seal first, then insulate. When choosing the right insulation system for the home there are many options. Cellulose, Fiberglass and Spray Foam Insulation are the most commonly used types of insulation in the industry today. Because spray foam insulates and seals it is an attractive option that should be considered.In my next blog I will look at my insulation options, the pros and cons of each, and then the work begins!! 

Loose fill Fiberglass insulation being added to existing Insulation.

Beyond The Walls- Spray Foam-"Show me the money!"

In previous blogs I have stated that foam is a superior product for air sealing and that using spray foam as your insulation system can really have a huge impact on energy conservation within your home. It has been documented that in the typical home, enough air escapes each day to fill two Goodyear blimps. Because spray foam performs differently than conventional insulation, air flow is stopped at the attic plane and your utility dollars are spent conditioning your home, not the neighborhood around you. 

Today I am going to show you the money with a real life testimonial. This is a home that we have followed over the course of a year since insulating the attic with Icynene spray foam insulation.  This home is a 6800 sq ft home, housing a family of five. The average monthly utility bill was $390.37 based on information gathered from the homeowner's actual utility bills. I like to use this home as an example because prior to insulating with spray foam, this home had a loose fill fiber glass insulation blown to an R-44. The recommended level in this region for a loose fill blown in fiberglass similar to the insulation present in this home is an R-38 so it is safe to say that this home was above the recommended level and already well insulated. But take a look at what spray foam did for this homeowner.

After removing the fiberglass and applying spray foam to the deck in the attic the homeowners were able to reduce their monthly utilitiy bill an average of 34% over the course of a 12 month period, saving $1575.92 for the first year or, approximately, $131.00 per month. It would have been ideal had the builder insulated with spray foam when the home was built. The savings would have been immediate, but it is never too late to make this decision. With the cost of removal and the application of spray foam, this treatment will have paid for itself in a little over 3 years if the savings remain constant each year.  

Utility Costs for 6,800 square foot home for a family of five.

These homeowners had a sense that they were paying too much for utilities.This visual reinforces that, although this home was well insulated to begin with, complete air sealing with spray foam was the answer to their high utility bills. This is the before and after on their utility costs. 

The one thing that we cannot stress enough in our business is that preventing the loss of air at the roof line of your home is where you should begin if you want to conserve energy and make an impact on those utility bills. When the airflow is stopped your insulation and HVAC system can then work together and you should see some real changes take place.

Beyond The Walls- Why Insulate with Spray Foam

In earlier blogs I mentioned the superiority of spray foam insulation.  Although many think that Spray Foam Insulation is a new product in the insulation industry, it has actually been in use since the 1940s in the aviation field then later introduced to the construction industry in the  1970s. In recent years it has become a popular alternative to more traditional insulation products as energy costs continue to rise and energy conservation is on everyones mind.  Why Spray foam? The three main reasons that our customers choose foam insulation is because it is efficient, healthy and it's a quality product. 

What makes spray foam a healthy choice? Because spray foam seals tight, allergens and outdoor elements that irritate asthma are held at bay, improving the quality of the air in your living space.  The living space becomes draft free improving the overall comfort of your home. Another important comfort benefit that  spray foam provides is enhanced sound control, sealing the building envelope from a myriad of invasive  outdoor noises.

The biggest point that I would make about efficiency is that the use of spray foam in a structure has proven results when it comes to energy savings. Although all structures perform differently, energy savings of up to 50% can be achieved through the use of spray foam.  There is some degree of difficulty to properly applying spray foam insulation but once properly applied, spray foam can save you a lot of money on your utilities. Spray foam is applied as a liquid, in a very thin coat, which then expands to fill the entire cavity creating a very tight seal. There is no stapling, cutting, or stuffing required around electrical boxes or wall penetrations that allow air to pass through. Spray foam seals all gaps and crevices that compromise airtightness. When you have an airtight building envelope, your HVAC works more efficiently and fewer utilities are consumed.

All spray foam products are not created equal so  it pays to your homework. Our Company only uses  the Icynene Spray Foam system. Icynene is considered to be the best because it has been at the forefront of the evolution of the foam industry for the last 25 years. It is the only foam on the market today that offers a warranty for the lifetime of the home, that transfers from one owner to the next. 

Why Spray Foam Insulation for Homes

Beyond The Walls-Insulating Your Crawlspace

Like the attic, the crawlspace is often an area that is overlooked for regular maintenance. My home is no different.  In case you are not sure whether you have a crawlspace or a  basement, a crawlspace is characterized as being an accessible but unfinished area beneath your home. There are two types of crawlspaces. There are vented and unvented crawlspaces. If your crawlspace is vented you will see foundation vents in the concrete foundation of your home that are designed to be open in the warmer months and closed in the cooler months. If you don't see these vents, your home has an unvented crawlspace. It is important to determine which type of crawlspace you have before beginning any work because from an insulation standpoint these would be treated differently. 

The one commonality in the treatment of vented and unvented crawlspaces is the need for a vapor barrier. Because the crawlspace is an unfinished space, moisture from the ground can accumulate causing mold , odors and other structural issues. The recommended treatment for installing a vapor barrier in the crawlspace is to cover the floor with 6mil plastic sheeting. Working in rows, the pieces of sheeting should overlap each other  by approximately 12 inches, should extend up the wall a few inches then be secured with tape. Hold the seams in place with tape, scrap lumber or rocks. Once the vapor barrier is in place you are ready to begin insulating.  

The recommended treatment for insulating a vented crawlspace is to fit kraft faced insulation batts into the floor joists. The kraft paper acts as a vapor retarder and should face against the floor deck. The insulation should fit snuggly, leaving no holes or seams where air can pass though and upwards into the living space. Staple the flanges securely to the sides or bottoms of the joists. Because over time the insulation can sag, it is important to use wire fasteners, or chicken wire to hold the insulation in place. Wire hangers should start at least 6 inches from the end of each batt and repeat no more than 24 inches apart. Do not compress the insulation when installing the hangers. Insulation that has been compressed loses its R-factor.

For an unvented crawlspace it is recommended that the walls and the header joists be insulated. The header joists run across the ends of the floor joists. Measure and cut pieces of un-faced fiberglass batts and place them against the header joists . This should be repeated between each floor joist, completely filling the spaces that have been enclosed by the the floor joists, subfloor , and the sills. The key to installing a successful air barrier is a snug fit, with no gaps or holes. Once again, we are not compressing the insulation! Instead of insulating the floors, in the unvented crawlspace, we are insulating the walls. Spray foam insulation is the ideal product for this application  because of the ease of installation. If you aren't using  a spray foam application the process would be install fiberglass batts to the sill with furring strips. These should be nailed to the sill plate and the insulation should hang down the wall and extend into the crawlspace approximately 24". Anchor the the insulation where it meets the ground with 2X4 s. Anchor as close the wall as possible. As always, when adding insulation, gaps and cracks should be avoided so the batts should be butted up as closely as possible to one another.

Properly maintaining the crawlspace area beneath your home will not only save money on the utility bills but it is also an investment in your health and the longevity of your home. 

Beyond The Walls-Air Sealing The Attic To Reduce Utility Costs

In my last blog I decided against using a spray foam insulation to insulate my attic because I calculated that for the short term, although I would see a savings on my utility bills, I would not see a payback on my investment before I sold my home. I still need to air seal, so where do I begin? First and foremost it is important to understand that what we are doing when we air seal our home is that we are creating a barrier between our conditioned living space and unconditioned spaces (and the outdoors). This is what is commonly referred to as the building envelope.  These barriers consist of walls, roofs, windows and floors. Locating any hidden holes in these areas will do much to reduce the air flow throughout your home, resulting in significant savings on your utility costs.

To realize the greatest energy savings as the result of my attic re-insulation project I need to identify the holes where conditioned air is escaping and seal those tight. For some this may be a job to be contracted out to companies like ours, but this can easily be a do-it-yourself job if you have the right materials and a plan. For smaller holes, a general all-purpose caulk or canned foam will do the trick. For larger areas like dropped soffits, attic hatches or exposed knee walls, plywood, drywall or rigid foam insulation board can be used. It is important to use a high temperature caulk and sheet metal or metal flashing to seal gaps around the chimney and furnace flues to avoid the risk of fire. When air sealing duct work, a product called mastic, or a mastic tape, should be used. The temptation to use duct tape, the great fix all, should be avoided for this application.

Recessed lighting is a tremendous source of air leakage. In my home I have about thirty of these. I will have to seal and insulate around all of these fixtures. An important consideration when treating around recessed fixtures is the presence of an IC (insulated contact) designation on the fixture. If the fixture isn't rated for contact with insulation, a minimum 3" of clearance should be allowed on each side. (there are pre-made covers available on the market that slip right over the fixture , and are designed to be sealed tightly with caulk or can foam) Other hidden holes might include bathroom and attic fans, wiring holes, open soffits, duct chaseways, and plumbing vents. For more information on insulating these areas there are many helpful links to be found at www.energystar.gov.

It is a good precaution to get advice from your HVAC company to make certain that all gas burning appliances are properly vented. Sealing the home tightly is important to save on energy costs but should be done with attention to combustion safety and the increased opportunity for carbon monoxide build up if done incorrectly.

With the proper materials and tools on hand to get the job done this project can be completed over a weekend. Create a diagram of the space. Develop a work plan. Have all of the materials  and tools, including adequate lighting and a flashlight, close at hand. Once sealed, the attic insulation can be added. When the airflow has been effectively stopped at the attic plane my attention will shift to the crawlspace  where there are many opportunities for air and moisture to enter the home.

Beyond The Walls-Choosing The Right Insulation

When choosing the right insulation system for your home you will find that you have many options.   Cellulose, Fiberglass, and Spray Foam Insulation are the most commonly used types of insulation in the industry. In my attic I found that cellulose had been applied. There are both positives and negatives to using cellulose which makes choosing the right type of insulation for your home a very personal matter. Cellulose is comprised of natural materials making it very eco-friendly. When sprayed in the attic it has a tendency to settle down into the cracks and crevices creating a tighter air barrier. However, over the years, cellulose will break down and settle further reducing your R-Factor, or, thermal resistance. As it breaks down it may become dust that can be carried into your living space.

Blown fiberglass loose-fill is another option. It is made of spun glass fibers and sand or silica. It has good thermal resistance properties but does not seal completely, allowing air to pass through gaps and voids. A disadvantage of loose fill insulation is that if the insulation is handled, stepped on or compressed in any way it will not puff up to its original form. If it needs to be moved for roof repair or electrical work it will lose it's effectiveness and may need to be touched up. If using fiberglass batts, the insulation can simply moved aside and returned once the work is complete.

Spray foam insulation is a hot product right now because it offers both insulating and air sealing properties. It is a bit more expensive than either cellulose or blown fiberglass but the potential energy savings with foam insulation are significantly greater. This makes spray foam insulation the LEAST expensive option over the long term. If you are thinking about choosing spray foam as your insulation system you should use only certified spray foam contractors who have received comprehensive training in the application process. It is critical to do your homework! There are many imitation products on the market. Our business uses Icynene products because they have been at the forefront of the industry since 1986. They offer a  superior product that includes a warranty. The installation of spray foam insulation can be tricky if you don't have the right ventilation system for your combustible appliances. This is an important reason to work only with certified professionals that understand how the HVAC and insulation systems work together.

Because I need the air sealing properties of spray foam insulation, I am strongly considering this as a solution. But let's think about this for a moment- I have lived in this home for about 30 years now and am anticipating a change in the next couple of years. The cost of removing the existing insulation and the addition of the proper ventilation added to the higher cost of spray foam over the next two years will significantly reduce my energy costs but will not be enough to return my investment before I put my home on the market. For my particular scenario, spray foam insulation may not be the best option to see a return on my investment for the short term. If I were planning to stay in my home longer, I would choose spray foam insulation because it is the superior product and the least expensive option as a long term solution to high energy costs. 

Having ruled out foam insulation for this attic space, I still have the air sealing issues to address. Although I did not choose to spray foam my attic there are still many ways to prevent air leakage out the roof. I will address these in my next blog. But here is some food for thought. Whenever you are trying to control air leakage always start at the attic plane and work your way down!

Beyond The Walls

Many of us don't think about how our home performs beyond the comfort of our living space yet we all dread that time of the month when the utility bill rolls around. I am one of these people. Although I have worked in the insulation business for about ten years now I freely admit that I simply do not go up to the attic as often as I should. Everyday, outside the home I am part of a team that educates people about how the proper insulation of the home is the most important thing that we as homeowners can do to combat rising energy costs. Until now, I haven't bothered to look at what is happening in my own home. After having a new energy efficient air conditioning system installed recently, I have  made the commitment to put into practice what our company preaches on a daily basis. It will be a big undertaking in a home that is 30 plus years old so I may need some help establishing my "action plan". It is well established that most air leakage occurs through the attic space so my first plan of attack is to grab a flashlight and get up there! Hopefully, I will find that all that is needed is a little extra R-value added to my existing insulation.

Simply adding insulation is a great beginning, but may not be the cure all to my high utility bills. Because the insulation system should perform in harmony with the home's HVAC (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) system, I may have a larger problem than just being under-insulated. One thing I hear often from the people that we serve is that once they see what type of difference a little added insulation can make they are inspired to take it the next step. If this is the case, it might be time to consider having an analysis performed by a certified HERS (Home Energy Rating System) rater. 

HERS raters are able to identify energy saving opportunities and choose the most promising. They can compare the life cycle cost of taking action against the life cycle cost of not taking action. Although energy conservation, increasing efficiency, and savings are key goals of an energy rater, do not overlook that your living comfort and enhanced health and safety are also the priority of the HERS rater. This is achieved by reducing harmful by-products created by out-dated systems that aren't working in sync with one another.

 In my next blog I will identify the issues that I find in my own attic and, step by step, I will share with you my plan to seal up the space. I will also share with you the most effective means of insulating to conserve energy and to reduce my utility bills.